Kitchen Face Lift

Project number 3 has been a kitchen update. There's been some serious labor poured into this project. For the record, the genius who invented the idea of wallpaper is fortunate that we didn't live in the same time period. That's all I'm going to say.

The process:
1. The remaining wallpaper had to be stripped. I started out using a steamer but didn't get satisfactory results. I saw on HGTV that you can spray a vinegar/water solution onto the wallpaper and let it soak for a couple of minutes for easy removal. While it did remove the wallpaper much easier, I should not that you can receive optimal results by lightly scoring the wallpaper. Be careful not to apply too much pressure; you WILL damage the drywall.

2. Using steam to remove the wallpaper inadvertantly removed some sections of the drywall as well, a problem which needed to be resolved before painting could begin. I used a spackle that goes on pink and dries white. This is a double win. First, you can easily see if you've patched an area already when you're dealing with exposed drywall--which is also obviously white--and second, it gives you an easy indication when the surface is ready for a second application.

3. This was easily the messiest part of the project. Once the spackle had dried completely, the sanding process began. Purchase plastic drop cloths to cover all case openings into the space--they're not expensive at all and they'll keep dust from traveling to other areas in the space. Also make sure that you wear both eye protection and a dust mask. Also, make sure that you wear both eye protection and a dust mask. Yes, I said it twice. The point needs to be driven. I started by just sanding the spackles areas, but then I realized that the sanding brick also would remove some of the leftover glue residue from the wallpaper. So alas, I sanded the walls from ceiling to floor. Needless to say, I looked OLD from all of the dust.

4. Once the sanding was finished, I used a wet rag to remove the excess dust from the walls and trimwork and swept up the dust that had fallen onto the floor. Wiping the walls gives the paint a surface to actually adhere to--which is why you sanded in the first place!

5. With the walls prepped, then came the pre-painting tape-off. I'm obsessive compulsive when it comes to preventing a mess and keeping things crisp, so I take my time applying painter's tape. Always keep in mind the scope of your project, however. Had I remembered that I'm also going to paint the trim and doors of the kitchen, I would've realized that it was ok to get paint on the trim. The cabinets and counters, however, did need to be outlined.

6. The first coat went down. I used a bristled brush to apply the outline. To prevent brush lines from appearing, you can "feather out" the paint. This just means using the brush to go beyond the stroke marks and blend the paint seamlessly into the wall. Brush strokes are your enemy. I then used a brush roller to fill in the rest. I roll vertically, starting in the middle of the wall and working down then up, but I've also heard that you're supposed to apply diagonally to prevent stroke lines. I didn't notice any line marks, but it's worth noting.

7. The first coat dried and I dropped down the second coat the same way. Trim, feather, roll.

Make sure you give everything time to dry properly. Don't rush yourself or the project, or you'll get rushed results. Also of note, when your walls are damaged like these were, consider using a coat or two of Kilz before applying the paint. The paint I purchased was the primer+paint from Behr, but after two thick coats, the results were--thusfar--satisfactory. The photo was taken while the first coat was drying. It's raining today, so when I return tomorrow to start the trim work, I'll take another photo. The trim will be a crisp white interior latex enamel, also from Behr. Expect photos soon!

I think that's pretty much everything that I was going to say about that. If anything else pops into mind, I'll post. As always, comment, critique, question, b&g.

[crf]